Archive for 2015 年 6 月 20 日

Checking and Changing BRZ/FR-S Engine Coolant

GrimmSpeed DIY Guide Series
Checking and Changing BRZ/FR-S Engine Coolant
Updated 6/25/12
Introduction: This guide will illustrate how to check and change the coolant in your BRZ/FR-S.

Tools: The tools listed below are suggested for this task. Optional tools are noted.

Rubber hose
Drain Pan
Funnel
Flat head screwdriver
Subaru Super Coolant, Item # K0670Y0001
Manual Transmission 7.6 U.S. qt (7.2 L)
Automatic Transmission 7.9 U.S. qt (7.5 L)

Tips:

Procedure:

A.) Checking your coolant level

1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2) Open the hood and locate the Coolant Overflow Reservoir. It is made of clear plastic and located directly below the Radiator Cap.


3) Check that the fluid level is between the “Full” and “Low” lines on the reservoir when the car is COLD.


4) If the level is low, add coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the “Full” line.

5) If the vehicle is cold, remove the radiator cap and verify that the coolant level is all the way up to the filler neck. If not, top off with coolant.

B.) Changing your coolant

1) Safely lift and support the vehicle. Refer to owner’s manual for preferred method.

2) Locate and remove the service hole cover on the underside of the front bumper, on the passenger side.


3) Locate the drain plug on the side of the radiator and connect a hose to the nipple. Use a hose with an internal diameter of 8mm. This allows you to drain the coolant into a container without making a mess.

4) Position your catch container under the hose, and open up the radiator’s drain plug.

5) Remove the radiator cap to speed up the draining process.

6) After fully draining the radiator, tighten the drain **** plug, and reinstall the service hole cover.

7) Lower the vehicle onto the ground, and fill the radiator with coolant. Do so slowly to prevent air bubbles, and stop when you get to the filler neck.

8) Locate and open the air bleeder plug. It is towards the rear of the engine, attached to one of the heater core hoses that passes through the firewall. Unscrew the plug using a screwdriver to loosen.



9) Check the coolant level in the radiator. If the level dropped, fill it back up to the filler neck.

10) Close the air bleeder plug once fluid starts to come out of it. Otherwise continue filling the radiator.

11) Fill the coolant overflow reservoir until the level reaches “Full.”

12) Replace the radiator cap, and twist to seal it. Start the engine and race the engine 5 times to about 3000rpm. Turn the engine off. Spend no longer than 40 seconds completing this step.

13) Wait for an entire minute and then remove the radiator cap. If the coolant level has dropped, open the air bleeder plug in the heater hose. Add coolant to the radiator until the fluid level reaches the radiator neck. Close the air bleeder plug.

14) Re-do steps 12 and 13 again.

15) Re-attach the radiator and reservoir caps.

16) Start the engine and turn the heater on to the maximum hot position with the blower speed set to “LO.”

17) Run the engine at 2000rpm until the radiator fan starts and stops. Be careful with the coolant temperature to avoid overheating the engine.

18) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to at most 86 degrees F.

19) Open the radiator cap. If the coolant level has dropped add coolant until the level reaches the filler neck. Also, add coolant to the overflow reservoir until it reaches the “Full” line. Re-attach the radiator cap and twist to seal it.

20) Set the heater to the maximum hot position and set the blower speed to “LO.” Start the engine, and race to 3000rpm several times. If a flowing sound can be heard (from the heater core in the cabin) repeat this process from step 17 on.

Radium Catch Can Install DIY

Radium Catch Can Install DIY

Vendor:

DIY VIDEO INSTALL
http://youtu.be/tqNGzATpia0


SAE Toyota Journal About the Importance of PCV Systems in Modern Engines Summarized by Dezoris:

What does the PCV System Actually Do?

The PCV system is designed to recycle engine blow by gasses back into the intake for emissions purposes. 

However to do so it requires a variable PCV valve because the amount of blow by gas coming out of the engine down the PCV hose is not always equal to the amount of vacuum at the intake manifold. 

So the PCV valve is opened and closed based on the amount of vacuum at the intake manifold and the amount of blow by gasses being vented. This helps to equalize the vacuum and gas pressure to insure smoother engine operation. The air to fuel ration and the tuning for that system takes into account PCV vacuum and air flow. 

1. Full Throttle and high RPM = Lower Intake Manifold Vacuum, High Engine Blow By.
In this condition the PCV Valve is forced full open. If there is too much blow by then the breather hose will also be used to vent into the intake hose. This will only occur under high load situations.
 

2. Lower Throttle, Cruising = Moderate Intake Manifold Pressure, Lower Blow By.
In this condition PCV Valve is half open

3. Idle or De-Acceleration = High Intake Manifold Pressure, very low blow by.
In this condition the PCV valve is virtually closed.

Side Effects and how to Test for Issues:

PCV valve and PCV Hose: 

PCV Valve is engine specific to engine tuning, if you use the wrong valve or it becomes clogged the air/fuel ratio computation tends to run rich. Rough Idle, stalling or performance issues could also occur. 

Testing for blockage or faulty PCV Valve:

First you want to plug in your OBDII scanner and monitor engine RPM.
 
Once the car is fully warmed up or your coolant reaches 170 Degrees or higher, clamp off your PCV tube from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. Once blocked engine RPM should drop 50-100RPM.
If it does not you may have a damaged PCV hose or bad PCV valve or the system is clogged.

In this case you may see issues with rough idle or some drivability issues. The PCV line is under vacuum, not the breather hose. 
A plugged PCV line will cause higher oil consumption in the crank case.

Breather Hose:
 
Its primary design is to vent excess blow by that the PCV valve and hose can’t pass. Usually only under high load.
If the breather hose is clogged or blocked it will cause higher pressure inside the crank case which can cause higher oil consumption and or more unburned fuel which can contaminate the oil. However a leak in the breather hose wont generally cause any issues.

Used Oil Analysis: 
Sending out used oil will help to show if there is a higher level of fuel in the oil which could also track back to a faulty PCV system.

Oil in Intake Tube: 
Usually is caused by a faulty PCV valve stuck open restricted PCV hose which will cause more oil in the breather line. 

Installation Preparation

Purpose: To prevent oil, oil mist and moisture flow back into the intake manifold and intake valve train.

Long Term: Prevents oil build up on valve train and intake manifold that will bake on and cause massive carbon deposits, which can cause performance and efficiency issues prevalent on direct injected engines. (Large discussion about the issue in direct injected Audi’shttp://www.audizine.com/forum/showth…up-Megathread?

Difficulty Level: Easy

Time to Install: 1 Hour if you are not making a bracket 3 Hours if you are making a bracket 12 hours if you use narcotics

################################################## 

Parts Needed:

HOSES:
2 Feet of 1/2″ ID PCV Tubing (Gates Safety Stripe II – Fuel Line/PCV/EEC Hose Part # 2700 6)
Feet of 11/32″ ID PCV Tubing Goodyear PCV (
65119)

OTHER PARTS:

QTY 2: 11/32 – 3/4″ Hose clamps of your choice
QTY 1: Radium Universal Catch Can
QTY 1: 0.5″ OD Barb
QTY 1: 0.425″ OD Barb OR 90 Degree 2 Piece 0.425″ (Both Barbs are slightly larger than the hose.)
QTY 1: Aluminum Strip (Cut down to 10″ length)(Home Depot)
 (Crown Bolt 1 in. x 48 in. Aluminum 1/8 in. Thick Flat | Model Number: 44660)

QTY 2: Pan Head Screws to secure bracket to aluminum
QTY 2: Pan Head Fastening Nuts QTY 1: Loctite 6-ml Threadlocker 242 (Blue) 

Tools List:

  • Flat Head Screw Driver
  • Phillips Head Screw Driver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • 3mm Allen Key for Radium Screws 10mm Socket with Extensions
  • Bench Grinder (if you cut your own bracket)
  • Sheet metal Sheers, Bolt cutter, Band Saw, Jig Saw (Whatever you have to cut Bracket)
  • Vise to help bend your aluminum
  • Pliers (To tighten Barbs)
  • Vise grips (To bend aluminum to shape)
  • Spray paint, or vinyl (or nothing if you want your bracket silver)


Optional Accessories:
 A phone or notebook to write down all the digits you get after this install.

Women love it. Forget dropping your pants to score a date, that’s so ’96, install a catch can, when you corner one of the randoms you have been stalking outside a playground or high school, tell them all about your catch can. Then the magic begins.


Last edited by Dezoris; 11-13-2012 at 11:43 PM.

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Old 10-30-2012, 09:28 PM   #2
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: FR-S
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Preface:

FULL TECHNICAL DETAILS: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp…3&postcount=75
SAE ARTICLE ON HOW PCV SYSTEMS WORK BY TOYOTA: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac…3&d=1355781670

I chose the Radium can for a few reasons.

  1. I used to own a Lotus and Radium was one of those companies who put quality over quantity.
  2. I already had the can from my previous car and knew it worked.
  3. I want an OEM looking piece that will last the life of the vehicle.
  4. Most importantly, there was engineering behind it, design, flow testing race testing and more. It’s not a generic product.





Installation:

  1. layout contents of can.




2. Attach the .5″ Barb to the outlet port (Middle of Can)

3. Insert 3 stainless steel filters in top port of can.

4. Attach the .4″ Barb to the inlet port (Top of Can)

5. Attach can to supplied Radium bracket to assure it fits and then remove it from the bracket.

6. Cut your aluminum strip down to roughly 16″

7. Scribe the marks on the aluminum piece. 

8. Drill holes into bracket using the correct drill bit for the screws you purchased.

10. Spray your bracket black or cover with vinyl. (OPTIONAL)

11. Secure your bracket the the Radium can bracket. (Ignore bracket length in picture)

12. Remove the two 10mm screws on the air pump/noise generator bracket.

13. Test fit the length of the aluminum so you can bend the metal to shape to fit.

14. Remove the aluminum from the Radium bracket and bend to shape, using small vise and vise grips.

15. Drill hole at end of aluminum to fit the 10mm mounting screw from air tube.

16. Test fit your custom bracket make sure you have enough clearance and the can sits level.

17. Secure the Radium Can to the bracket with supplied Allen Screws using blue thread lock on the screws.

18. Finish final assembly making sure you use thread lock on all your bolts. (NOT THE BARBS)

19. Snaggle the bracket into place and re-tighten the two 10mm bolts back into the air hose/noise generator bracket. Bend your aluminum as needed.

20. Remove the top plastic cover from the engine that says Toyota, Subaru.

21. Underneath remove the PCV hose. (The one on the left with no hose clamp)

22. Follow the PCV hose down and remove it from the PCV valve. (Just pulls off, don’t complain)

PCV VALVE AND HOSE

23. Grab 18″ of 1/2″ PCV hose and connect it from the intake manifold and then to the outlet of the catch can push it on there, use hose clamps if you want to.

24. Grab 18″ of 11/32″ PCV hose and connect it from the PCV valve to the catch can inlet. Don’t be a chud, if it feels loose use hose clamps.

25. Check tightness and all hoses.

26. Re-install plastic cover.

27. Look at that you installed it!!!!

FINAL NOTES SHUT UP AND LISTEN!!!

  • If you drive for economy drain the can every oil change 3000-5000 miles
  • If you drive agressive street only, check the can level every 2000 miles.
  • If you do auto and aggressive street driving check every 1000 miles.
  • If you track the car, check after each session.

Q&A


QWhat no breather tube can?


A. You don‘t need a can for the breather tube unless you are on the track all day every day or you use I forced induction. The PCV system is where 95% blow by goes. Still concerned? Check the intake tube at thethrottle body. If there is oil there, well you need to get a can for the breather tube.

Read the PCV info first post for more details.

Change in Barbs FYI – Choose the standard or 90 Degree Two Piece Barb.

Attached Images

Last edited by Dezoris; 12-17-2012 at 06:18 PM.

Dezoris is offline

New FR-S BRZ Technology Info! Engine specs, CoG, Drag Coefficient, Dimensions, etc.

Key Info:

  • 460mm from ground to the center of the crank/gravity (low CG)
  • 53:47 F/R weight split
  • 0.27 Cd (coefficient of drag)
  • D-4S DI engine tech (direct injection pairs with secondary EFI)
  • 1,998cc Displacement
  • 200 HP
  • 151.2 ft-lbs torque
  • 7400rpm redline
  • 12.5:1 Compression ratio
  • 86mm x 86mm bore/stroke
  • Mcpherson front suspension / Double wishbone rear
  • Rear seats fold (as one unit)
  • Cup holders can slide / be removed
  • Can carry 4 tires in rear

Translated scans (big thanks to AKI !!!):

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ORIGINALS

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Hachiroku is offline

Toyota TechStream Ver GTS_10.10.018 – Diagnostic Tools for FR-S/GT86/BRZ

UPDATE MAY. 15, 2015.

Hi boys, here I am again, here the newest version of diagnostic tools for GT86/BRZ – Multilanguage.
This tool let customize (reset errors) some vehicle options like does EcuScan for Fiat/Suzuky and many others for Renault, Audi and so on.

NO need for online activation , …..simply follow directions selecting market (EU,JP or USA) in accordance to your vehicle market setup and insert what you can read inside file xxxx.txt

Warning:

as for all diagnostic/setting tools:
NEVER runs on a laptop NOT fully of battery charge!
NEVER disconnect cable when performing setting!
NEVER CLOSE program while operating!
NEVER RUNS under high power consumption (navi,fans and climate control or light)!
OPERATE with open door and half window(preferably)

The software runs a diagnostic for cable (preferable before starting each action).

All that you need need is a cheaper J2534 TOOL (cheap MINIVCI,ACTIA,KTS,etc).

These are drivers (transparent J2534, cheaper chinese): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/…LE%202.0.1.msi

Install program (download here https://db.tt/dHYMcxyc ) and locate IT3System.ini

You can edit IT3System.ini without follow other actions to free the program

;================================================= ==========================;
;Available Function Setting
;================================================= ==========================;
[AvailableFunction]
MinorFunction=1
TISFunction=1
UserFunction=1

CHANGE TISFunction-=1 to 0

Warnpics may vary upon market settings (Usa or Europe), first screenshot is “Europe”.

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HANDLE ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT ARE YOU DOING.

Here in Europe each time you go to dealer for stupid things (simply accomodation for seat bealts or DRL setting) you pay a lot as a slot machine. So learn to manage these tools is important


__________________


Last edited by Trap63; 05-30-2015 at 06:19 PM. Reason: updating software link

AVO Stage 1 Turbocharger Kit for the 2013 Subaru BRZ and Scion FR-S 2.0!

AVO Stage 1 Turbocharger Kit for the 2013 Subaru BRZ and Scion FR-S 2.0!

AVO’s front-mounted Stage 1 turbocharger kit for the Subaru BRZ and Scion FR-S is now available! The kit is designed to work with both RHD and LHD models in all countries, and extensive testing has been done on both the Japanese Subaru BRZ and the US Market Scion FR-S and BRZ, both in automatic and manual. The Japanese BRZ has been extensively track tested from day 1 (back in early 2012), and our US Market FR-S spent it’s initial 4 days and 1400 miles testing and tuning in varying conditions, in the mountains at 6000 feet and 0 degree temperatures, to sea level and below in the desert in 100 degree heat! This was done to ensure our kit will hold up as a daily driver where ever you go, whatever the conditions. All testing in the American market has been conducted on 91 and 92 octane pump gas to ensure this is going to handle daily driving as well as the track. Our FR-S in America has had over 20,000+ miles on the turbo kit!

The turbocharger kit is designed from top to bottom specifically to the FR-S and BRZ, and consists of the all the parts necessary to bolt the kit up to the car. We utilize an AVO18/49 turbocharger that mounts up under the front of the engine via our ceramic-coated, stainless steel unequal length exhaust manifold, and then it bolts up to the stock exhaust with our ceramic-coated stainless steel turbo discharge pipe. Cooling the pressurized air is an aluminum bar and plate front mount intercooler which uses black piping throughout, mechanical oil scavenging pump, oil reservoir tank, and all necessary water and oil hoses and fittings. Tuning is by AVO Turboworld via EcuTek reflash tools, and we will provide an Ecutek-based AVO Stage 1 base map free of charge with the Stage 1 kit.

Why underneath? Subaru themselves decided on this layout for their new Forester, WRX, and Legacy turbo models, utilizing it on the FA20DIT (direct injection turbo) motors. It is simply the best setup for response and power. The closer the turbocharger is to the exhaust ports, the better the spool response. Not only that, but mounting the turbo in that location helps keep that low center of gravity that’s such an important part of the BRZ and FR-S experience. And finally, it helps immensely with the cooling. The way the car was designed from the factory, the air flows through the front and then underneath the engine. With the turbo situated there, it has a good flow of air over it that is immediately vented to the rear, keeping our setup cool. Since our turbo kit literally just replaces the exhaust manifold, that area that it is fitted to was already treated to for heat, so there are no issues with overheating the parts around it. Overall, we aimed at giving FR-S and BRZ owners what they really wanted – a car that felt like it was boosted from the factory. And in that we succeeded.

This turbokit has been designed to bolt up to the stock air intake box and to the stock exhaust system, but we do recommend upgrading the exhaust for the best performance. We have spent a lot of time ensuring it will work with the standard fueling system for a complete bolt on and go setup. The beauty of the system is that it looks very stock from above! The FMIC has been specifically designed to fit with the standard bumper without trimming as well, and on FR-S models would be be difficult to see unless you are looking for it.

So what can you expect from this kit? 
From our testing, you will see anywhere from 220 to 250whp at the base 6psi on 91~92 octane pump gas. Even though the stock motor is 12.5:1 compression, incredibly high for a n/a motor. This makes gas quality even more important than ever! If it wasn’t for the fact that this FA20 motor is a completely different and modern design with an incredibly well made combustion chamber, we wouldn’t even attempt to turbocharge these cars. But while many people associate it with the old EJ20 series motors from Subaru, there is absolutely no comparison besides the fact they are both boxer 4′s made by Subaru. The entire design of the engine is different, especially the combustion chamber, which has been improved tremendously from anything previously made by Subaru.

Not only is the engine a major step up, the ECU on this car is also a great design, reacting incredibly fast to knock and adjusting parameters to compensate. This helps increase the reliability of the turbocharged motor. As is well known by now, this is also a direct injection motor, helping both power and gas mileage. We’ve seen mpg figures as good as stock on the freeway, probably better than stock as we were not exactly sitting on cruise control during our testing!

As you can see from the dyno chart, we saw 230whp (276 crank hp) and 197 ft/lbs of torque at 5-6 psi on 92 octane gas literally from a nearby Chevron gas station. This was with the stock airbox with an AVO high-flow panel filter installed, and a stock secondary cat in place. All these figures were reached on the stock fueling system as well!

The stage 1, base map dyno chart has been updated to reflect the latest version of the turbokit with the upgraded actuator and exhaust manifold design. This is on a totally stock car with just the turbo kit and Stage 1 base map.

Additional charts from other members and tuners:

Drift Office FR-S at 10.7psi

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41463

Automatic BRZ fitted with stage 1 kit

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27957

8psi with a 3″ Tomei exhaust

12psi on Race Gas

Turbo Specifications:
AVO18/49 Turbocharger with 5-7psi actuator – Exhaust wheel size 49.1/56 | Compressor wheel size 50.2/67.9
This specially designed AVO18/49 turbocharger comes with a 5-7 psi actuator for precise boost control at lower psi levels, ensuring engine longevity. The turbocharger is rated for 380hp of flow, so there is certainly headroom available with it from the base stage 1 kit, which is doing 276hp on 92 octane.

Mechanical Oil Pump Specifications: 
We are unique in utilizing a mechanical oil pump that we locate at the back of the engine, which runs off the back of the RH camshaft. There is also a oil reservoir tank right off the turbocharger itself. This is the most reliable way to pull oil through the turbo to the engine, as it keeps the flow rate tied to the rpm speed of the motor, ensuring that it’s properly scavenged at low rpms and idling, and has enough at high rpms.

Front Mount Intercooler Specifications:
Bar & Plate Aluminum Intercooler with cast endtanks. Length = 19″ Height = 8″ Width = 3″
The intercooler kit utilizes black wire-reinforced silicone piping and two black powdercoated steel piping. The intake piping has ports to mount up a variety of blow-off valves, even OEM ones for a full stealth look.

Pricing:
MSRP on the kit will be $4400.00, and will include the EcuTek base tune. An EcuTek License and OBD-II cable are optional. High Temperature ceramic coating of the exhaust manifold, Turbocharger, and Turbo Discharge Pipe is now standard, and included in that base price.

Optional Parts:
AVO 2.5″ stainless steel turbo-back exhaust
coming soon: AVO 3″ turbo back setup
AVO high-flow panel filter for the BRZ and FR-S (MSRP $55.00)
AVO Blow-off Valve Kit (MSRP $220.00)
AVO 8psi, 10psi, and 12psi actuator upgrades
3-bar MAP sensor
EcuTek License
EcuTek OBD-II Cable

Edit: I’ll start updating this initial post for people new to the thread/forum.

It’s no secret we were going to be making a turbo kit, it’s a natural fit since we’ve been making turbo kits for naturally aspirated Subaru’s since 2001, and n/a turbo kits for other vehicles for over 3 decades.

This is just an initial information release, to keep the information up to date, and to give a basic run-down of what it will look like.

Turbocharger placement

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Updated pictures of the final kit:

Frequently Asked Questions:
Borrowed from @Sportsguy83 and expanded upon slightly:

Kit price?

$4400 USD for the Stage 1 turbo kit

How many psi will the kit run?

The turbo is designed with an internal wastegate fitted with a 6 psi adjustable actuator. It has been run up to 16psi on e85.

Will it fit AT cars?

Yes, it fits AT cars and has been installed on several.

How has this kit been tested?

The kit is actively tested in the track on the AVO Japan BRZ for the last 14 months, and has participated in several official time attack and lap events. Also, the kit has being tested in the USA in a variety of scenarios, from sea level elevation to 6000 feet elevation and temperatures from the hottest conditions to the coldest. A 2400 mile roundtrip to SEMA from Seattle, WA helped cover a lot of this varying conditions and was used to fine tune the ECUTek tune. It has been running in that car for the last 20,000+ miles dating from November 2012.

Will my local tuner be able to tune your awesome base map?

AVO approved tuners will have have access to unlocked base maps. They will be able to tweak it to your specific car.

With the Turbo location, can I keep the bottom skid plate or will I need to remove it?

The turbo sits about 2 inches above the undertray/skidplate. It reinstalls in the car. The turbo does not get in the way.

What is included i this kit?

FMIC and all necessary piping.
Unequal Length Exhaust Manifold
Oil and water-cooled Turbocharger
Turbocharger to Secondary cat engine pipe
Mechanical Oil Pump
Oil reservoir tank
Stainless Steel Oil Line and oil fittings
All assorted hoses, clamps, and other fittings necessary

And finally, a base map for running the car with the turbokit. This will be an Ecutek base map, and does require that you have a Ecutek license and cable for your car. If you have those already, we will send you a base map ROM. If you don’t, you can purchase the license and cable with the kit, or from any Ecutek vendor.

What type of Turbo is used? 

TD05 18g variant; AVO 18/49 turbocharger. Compressor wheel size 49.2/56 | Exhaust wheel size 50.5/68

Dyno numbers?

On 91 octane, Dyno numbers are: 230 WHP and 197 WTQ. Max Boost is achieved before 4K RPM.

Tune for other octane ratings (e.g. 93 octane) will come later on.

Will it hurt my car to use 93 octane while having a 91 octane map?

No, it will not hurt your car. If anything you will make a bit more HP than what the 91 Dyno plot says.

The Kit Moulded, reinforced black rubber piping look weak and cheap, I prefer Stainless Steel piping can I order it?

Moulded, reinforced black rubber piping was not chosen because it was cheap. It was chosen because it is best for this application. The hoses are wire-reinforced, and are so sturdy you can stand on top of them and they will not bend. They are good to 50 psi, no need to worry about them. There is no option for SS piping.

Why is the kit so cheap? Where are you cutting corners?

People may assume we are skimping on the parts. That’s not the case at all, we can do the kits at that pricing because of the commitment we make towards them. We will be putting parts for the kits into our factory production line, and making a fairly significant investment towards tooling. We may not even break even on the kits in the first year. The idea we will be making the money back eventually. The kit will be RHD and LHD compatible as well, as we have operations in Japan, Australia, Thailand, and America.

We’ve been making turbocharger kits for cars for 30+ years, and are in this for the long haul. Our lineup of kits stretch from Toyota Landcruisers to the Mazda Miata, with a lot of other models in between.

Where is the kit being built?

The main factory operation is in Thailand. We moved our head staff and equipment there a while ago due to some large scale projects in that location. It keeps our pricing from going completely off the board – USD has lost about 35% or more of it’s value vs. the Yen over the last few years.

What is the HP rating for the Intercooler?

The IC is rated up to 360 WHP

Will this kit include a BOV? Can I use any BOV on this kit?

BOV will be an optional part, with an AVO 100% recirculate (or 50/50) available, as well as other aftermarket or even OEM. The flange for the BOV will be the same as the EVO 7/8/9, for customers that want a full “OEM” look to it.

Does the kit include a BOV or exhaust components coating?

Both items are offered as an option and at additional cost.

Does this kit remove both Cats?

This kit removes the Cat from the OEM exhaust Manifold. Your choice of exhaust will dictate if you keep the secondary Cat, located in the frontpipe.

Do other exhaust systems bolt on to this Turbo Kit?

Any header back exhaust that bolts on to the stock location of the OEM header will bolt on to this kit.

Where is the Dyno plot, where can I see videos, I want MOAAAARRRR!

Dyno plot is in the first page, Look up Avoturboworld on Facebook to see the cool videos showing off the kit.

This post has the Youtube videos all in one spot:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp…postcount=2015

Steve Sutcliffe tests Fensport’s Toyota GT86 Turbo, then drives the firm’s bare-knuckle turbocharged race car. And pits it against a McLaren 12C to see how fast a GT86 can really go.

http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-video/v…claren-mp4-12c

Fensport is the authorized AVO distributor in the UK. They sell, install, and tune the AVO turbocharger kit for the FR-S and BRZ, and has been having great success with it on their Toyota Sprint Series GT86R. You can visit their website here: http://fensport.co.uk/

Youtube vidya:

Stage 3 testing on the AVO Turboworld Japan BRZ

We’ve been hard at work here at AVO on a variety of projects, with possibly the biggest one right now being the Stage 3 upgrades for the AVO BRZ/FR-S turbocharger kit. Our Stage 1 turbocharger kit has been incredibly popular worldwide, and has made a lot of people very happy by bumping the power up dramatically, from 165whp to 260+whp. Yet some people want more, much more, and we’ve listened to their requests.

It would have been easy enough to just up the boost and get a few glory runs on a dyno, but we are far more committed to our customers long-term enjoyment than that. We wanted Stage 3 to be as reliable as possible, with all the high-quality engineering and attention to detail that has been a trademark of AVO for the last 40+ years.

To this end, we spent a considerable amount of time and testing on our fuel pump upgrade, as the car was already starting to reach the limits of the pump at 300whp, and we were planning to go much further than that. After much time and effort, we have now got a full bolt in, no fitment compromise fuel pump that does not require any re-wiring or dremelling. It clips right in to the assembly, and doesn’t require you to have the fuel filter mashed up against the bottom of the pump housing. The standard wiring harness will clip right into it as well, and it doesn’t require additional O-rings to seal up.

Matched up with that is our upgraded Port Injectors. These were also designed to fit to the BRZ/FR-S, with the longer “neck” on it so that they reach down into the intake system and spray properly, unlike some other “short” designs that merely let the gas puddle down. Put these together with the fuel pump, and we now had the fueling to push the engine further.

But why so much extra fuel? Because we upgraded the turbocharger as well! The Stage 3 turbocharger utilizes a new billet compressor wheel with a more efficient design. While the overall size of the turbocharger hasn’t changed, the flow has improved dramatically enabling us to push it harder at higher boost levels. This allows up to bump up the peak horsepower available while keeping the impeccable low-end torque that makes this turbo kit such a pleasure to drive.

The final piece of the power puzzle is the complete 3″ exhaust system that will come with this kit. We don’t mean just from the cat-back, no, this exhaust is 3″ from the turbo charger exhaust housing back. The turbo discharge pipe and crossover pipe have been re-designed to provide maximum flow from the turbo all the way back.

As part of the testing we recently put the Stage 3 kit through it’s paces at the RevSpeed Super Battle Time Attack at Tsukuba Circuit. It went very well, with the car going roughly 1.5 seconds faster around the circuit on the exact same tires as earlier in the year. Power through the corners was very well controlled, and it was a rocketship exiting the corners and on the straights.

Immediately after the event we put the car on the dyno to see how it was doing at the race settings. Power was quite impressive, with 373whp on tap at 6400rpm, and a peak of 318ft/lbs of torque at 4800rpm. Even more exciting is how it was doing 290ft/lbs of torque from 3300rpm. This is a quick-responding turbo!